Hanoi travel guide: three days in Vietnam's capital

Hanoi travel guide basics: three days is enough to see the Old Quarter, the Temple of Literature and the city's food streets. Spend day one in the Old Quarter, day two at the temple and the old citadel, and day three eating. Plan for heavy traffic, petty theft and a few taxi tricks.

Sources for this section: Smartraveller, Vietnam; Lonely Planet, Dangers and annoyances.

Before you go

January is cool and often cloudy in Hanoi. The average high is near 19°C and the low is near 14°C, so pack a light jacket. Summer, from May to August, is hot, humid and wet.

Smartraveller, the Australian government's travel advice site, says you need a valid visa, an exemption document or an approval letter for a visa on arrival. Your passport needs at least six months left when you arrive. Smartraveller also warns about online visa scams and recommends applying through a Vietnamese embassy or consulate.

Sources for this section: Wikipedia, Hanoi; Smartraveller, Vietnam.

Day 1: the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake

The Old Quarter is near Hoan Kiem Lake and keeps the street layout of old Hanoi. In the past, each street in the quarter was home to merchants of one trade, such as silk or jewellery. The street names still reflect those trades. Bach Ma Temple, in the middle of the quarter, is said to be the city's oldest temple.

Visit the lake at dawn, when locals practise t'ai chi on the shore. Legend says a golden turtle rose from the lake in 1428 and asked Emperor Le Loi for his magic sword back. Ngoc Son Temple is on Jade Island, and a red wooden bridge links it to the shore.

On weekends, the streets around the lake are closed to vehicles from 7 pm on Friday to midnight on Sunday. The city started this as a trial on 1 September 2016 and decided in December to keep it going in 2017. A night market near Dong Xuan Market also opens in the Old Quarter on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings.

Sources for this section: Wikipedia, Hanoi and Hoan Kiem Lake; Lonely Planet, Hanoi and Sights in Hanoi; VNA, 3 September 2016; VietnamNet, 7 November 2016; QDND, 14 December 2016.

Day 2: the Temple of Literature and the Imperial Citadel

The Temple of Literature was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong and is dedicated to Confucius. Vietnam's first university opened on the site in 1076. Inside, 82 stone slabs called stelae stand on the backs of stone turtles. They record the names of 1,307 graduates of royal exams held between 1442 and 1779. Lonely Planet lists hours of 8 am to 5 pm, and entry of 30,000 Vietnamese dong for adults and 15,000 dong for students.

The temple is south of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long. UNESCO listed the central sector of the citadel as a World Heritage site in 2010. UNESCO says the Ly dynasty built the citadel in the 11th century, on the remains of a 7th century Chinese fortress. It says the site was the seat of regional political power for almost thirteen centuries.

Sources for this section: Lonely Planet, Temple of Literature; Wikipedia, Temple of Literature; UNESCO, Imperial Citadel of Thang Long; Wikivoyage, Hanoi.

Day 3: the food streets

Pho is thought to have begun in northern Vietnam in the early 20th century. Hanoi-style pho differs from the Saigon style in noodle width, the sweetness of the broth and the choice of herbs. Cha ca and banh cuon are believed to have started in Hanoi. Cha Ca Street is named after the restaurant Cha Ca La Vong, which serves one dish, fried fish. Bun cha, grilled pork with rice noodles and herbs, is thought to come from Hanoi too.

Egg coffee is a Vietnamese drink made with egg yolk, sugar, condensed milk and coffee. Giang Cafe is known for it, and the founder's son says his father developed the recipe when milk was scarce.

Hundreds of street restaurants line the footpaths. Quality, freshness and hygiene vary a lot. A few vendors also seem to forget your change, so count it.

Sources for this section: Wikipedia, Hanoi, Pho, Bun cha and Egg coffee; Wikivoyage, Hanoi.

How to cross the road in Hanoi

Smartraveller says streets are crowded, road rules are routinely ignored and traffic can appear from any direction. Lonely Planet adds that cooking stalls and parked motorbikes block the footpaths in the Old Quarter. Cross like this:

1. Look in every direction, front and back as well as left and right.
2. Walk slowly at a constant pace, so riders can judge where you are and steer around you.
3. Do not run or make sudden moves. Lonely Planet says moving fast only confuses riders.
4. Be patient and let the motorbikes pass around you.

Smartraveller also warns that thieves on motorcycles grab bags and phones from pedestrians, including when they cross the street or walk on footpaths. If you take a motorbike taxi, the law says you must wear a helmet, even as a passenger. Smartraveller says motorcycle accidents cause a very high number of serious injuries and deaths.

Sources for this section: Smartraveller, Vietnam; Lonely Planet, Dangers and annoyances; Wikivoyage, Hanoi.

Taxis, airport transfers and scams

Lonely Planet puts Noi Bai airport about 35 km north of the city, around 45 minutes by road. Smartraveller advises using an airport taxi, a transfer your hotel has booked, or a taxi from a clearly marked rank with minders. If someone holds a sign with your name, check that they know where you are going. Lonely Planet says to look for the official drivers in bright-yellow jackets and to avoid freelancers who tout for business.

Lonely Planet says several reliable companies run metered taxis at similar rates, but some dodgy operators use fast meters. It advises you to avoid taxis waiting at bus stations. Wikivoyage suggests asking your hotel which companies are reliable. It also describes a trick where a driver covers the thousand separator on the meter, so 30.5 (30,500 dong) looks like 305 (305,000 dong). Have your hotel write your destination in Vietnamese, and late at night choose a reputable company.

Some scams start with a friendly stranger. Lonely Planet warns about strangers near Hoan Kiem Lake who sometimes pose as students and propose a drink or a meal. They may then suggest a karaoke bar or restaurant, and you get a bill for hundreds of dollars. Smartraveller warns about gambling scams that begin with an invitation to someone's home. Hanoi's tourism department runs a hotline for tourists to report scams: +84 941 336 677.

Sources for this section: Smartraveller, Vietnam; Lonely Planet, Arriving, Taxi and Dangers and annoyances; Wikivoyage, Hanoi.